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Village Visits and Village Etiquette

How do you step into 3,000 years of living tradition? For those seeking a genuine connection to Fiji, the journey begins with understanding village etiquette. Here is everything you need to know before you go. Want to give back to the villages you visit ? Discover why school supplies or clothes are better than sweets. Make your visit meaningful and sustainable.

When visiting a village dress appropriately. A wrap around or sulu from your resort convenience store is a good and safe investment along with loose clothes and dresses. Women make sure your shoulders are covered. Do not wear a hat in a village and take off your shoes before entering any buildings. Ask for the village headman upon arrival. He is called the Turaga ni koro. Present him with a half kilogram of dried yaqona or kava root as a sevusevu. Kava merchants can be found in local markets, ask them to prepare a half or one kilogram of waka for a sevusevu.

In Fiji, as in other countries, it is wise to be both considerate and respectful of the local culture and follow proper Fiji village etiquette. Fijian people are legendary throughout the world for their friendliness and hospitality. This is one of the outstanding attractions of the country and becomes immediately obvious from the reaction of locals from the moment you enter the arrivals hall.

Visitors to Fiji are regarded as honoured guests and overwhelmed with hospitality. Such legendary friendliness is a part of a rich cultural heritage.

It would be unthinkable for a Fijian to sit down to a meal and should you be in the vicinity, not to invite you to partake. Similarly villagers will gladly give up their chores to welcome strangers, mix up a brew of yaqona or kava or a cup of tea or glass of juice, and sit around and talanoa or chat quizzing the visitors to satisfy their curiosity.

There is a proper form to observe when entering villages and in dealings with people. There are lots of tours that offer organised village visits and they are great. They can offer you things that you cannot find or are difficult to find on your own. They are well organised and fun.

But if you are feeling adventurous and wish to, you can have a crack yourself. It’ll likely turn out to be the most unique adventure and probably the highlight of your trip! Villages (koros) are everywhere. Get in a car or taxi and drive away from Denarau and Nadi. Eventually you will find yourself in the middle of one.

First things first. You will need a sevusevu (a traditional kava offering). Your sevusevu is your gift of respect. You will need a half or one kilogram of dried Kava roots known locally as yaqona. Kava is called yaqona in Fiji. It is pronounced yangonna. If you are going for an authentic experience start calling kava yangonna. It is known throughout much of the South Pacific as kava and so it is known as such to many. The root is pounded into powder, mixed with water and served in a special way.

To get your yaqona you will need to take a trip to Nadi market. Pop into the market and tell the market vendor that you wish to present a sevusevu and want good waka. Waka are the roots of the plant and make the strongest brew – hence they are the most valuable and respectful offering. The market vendor will prepare it for you accordingly. One kilogram is a good amount but half a kilogram will do. Get your sevusevu in advance, perhaps as part of a trip to the market and Nadi town. It does not go bad, so you can keep in your Resort’s room.

The next step is to find a village or koro.No problem there. The main roads of Fiji run through many villages. If that is a bit vague you can always talk to staff at your Resort, particularly if you have already struck up a friendship. They will have recommendations, including possibly taking you home if their village is nearby.

When entering a village tell the first person you come across that you wish to see the Turaga (pronounced Turannga) ni koro to present him with your sevusevu. The Turaga ni koro is the village administrative headman. You will be taken to him or taken to a place where you are to wait for him. Sit cross legged on the floor in front of him or waiting for him.

When he comes he will sit cross legged opposite you. If you have family/people with you have them sit behind you with your sevusevuby your side. Introduce yourself and your party and tell him you wish to present him with a sevusevu.  The presentation of a sevusevu is a formal affair and there is a proper protocol to be followed. At this point he will take over proceedings. It is most likely he will call someone to present the sevusevuon your behalf. But it is up to him. Don’t sweat it. Visitors are welcome – and you will be taken care of. The presentation of your sevusevuis the necessary thing to do and highly respectful. It will be received accordingly. 

After the sevusevu has been presented you may engage in general conversation with him. He is likely to ask you where you are from and things like that. When you feel the time is right tell him you would like to request permission to look around the village and take snapshots and talk to people. He may or may not assign someone to show you around. If you would like to drink a small mix of yaqona make that request also.

It is always a great idea to bring some gifts with you, especially for children. Clothes are always a winner – shirts, pants, and shoes of all sizes will be most welcome. Also school supplies. While Fijians value education very highly, many families struggle with providing the basics. You can make it part of your pre-trip planning to visit secondhand or thrift shops and stock up a little. If clothes or school supplies are out, or as well, go to a supermarket in town and get some groceries – 10kg of flour, 10kg of sugar, some tea and a big bucket or two of breakfast crackers will do the trick. Present the items with the yaqona sevusevu to the Turaga ni koro. If you have gifts tell him that you do. Whatever you gift will be very much appreciated. It is the thought that counts and the bigger the thought, the more it counts! And of course, there is always room for a little candy!

Fijians observe a strict dress code. If you are planning a village visit it would be best to buy a wrap-around, or sulu, from your resort convenience store or in town. They are easy to use and appropriate. Just wrap it around your waist and tie it in the middle or on the side. For your top half, dress conservatively. For both men and women a T-shirt is fine or for women a dress. Loose fitting rather than tight fitting clothes are appropriate.

It is not okay to wear a hat inside a village or inside government or official buildings. The ‘no hat’ rule is a relatively recent addition to Fiji’s contemporary culture, having originated out of traditional ceremonial, and having become a fixed rule through custom and practice.

Do not touch people on their heads, including children. The reason why is it not allowed to touch people on their heads is as follows. The head – ulu – of all people is considered a collective spiritual sacredness. Only people who fulfill traditional designated roles may touch and dress the head.

Women: do not bare your shoulders. This cultural idiosyncrasy arose originally from Christian and Victorian England forms of decency. It persists through to today.

Also do not conduct a village visit on a Sunday unless you wish to attend a church service first, in which case you will be very welcome. If you wish to attend a church service, it would be best to first visit the village during the week to present your sevusevu and to request to do so. In that way you will find out the necessary details of when and where the service is being held.

Fijians dress for church and you should do so as well. If you wish to really go for it you can go to town and get a black pocket’ sulu and white shirt for men and boys. Ask the shop keeper how to put the sulu on – these are a little more complicated with a belt and clasp. For women and girls dresses are most appropriate.

Take off your shoes when entering houses and buildings and avoid walking between people. If you must move around walk behind people not between them and say tulou– pronounced toolow – or excuse me as you do so. Tulou means excuse me.

If you are invited to drink yaqona– sit where you are told and don’t move around. Never ever walk in front of the yaqona tanoa always behind it. That is because the space between the tanoa and those preparing the yaqona and those drinking it is considered sacred. The tanoa is what the yaqona is prepared in. The tanoa faces the people drinking it with the servers behind it.

Clap your hands once you receive your first bilo, or cup, of yaqona, say bula to all assembled including your party and drink the bilo in one draft; clap your hands three times after giving the bilo back. For subsequent rounds just clap once before receiving the bilo and three times after handing it back. Don’t say bula again. Clap with cupped hands.

A final question for you. Today everyone has access to petrol driven grass cutters and steel machetes. That helps explain how the villages are kept looking pristine. But how was it done in an age when these tools were not available? The answer is by plucking the grass by hand and by using sharpened knives of bamboo. The bamboo knives were very useful and versatile, being also used by cannibal kings to have their bakola cut up for them!

Many many special lifelong friendships are forged between visitors to Fiji and locals. As that happens you feel yourself moving from being a visitor to part of the family. That’s why we say you have become part of the Denarau and Fiji family – village visit or no village visit!

To be even better prepared for your visit learn more about Fiji’s language, people,culture, history and settlement. Our highest recommendation for the best and most genuine village visit is here.

Yaqona or kava in its raw form. These are waka roots, the most powerful kava. This is what you want for your sevusevu. Tell the market vendor you need them for a sevusevu and he will prepared them appropriately.
When you visit a village it’s a good idea to consider the best time. After school or in the school holidays is good as the kids will be about.
Judy Siers with children after school at the famous Church of St. Francis Xavier in Naiserelagi, Rakiraki. The church contains world famous frescoes made by Jean Charlot.
Village visits – Happy welcoming smiles and conversation await.

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